IPMS Modeling Guide

IPMS-USA Modeling Basics

Aircraft

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Seams filled if not present on the actual aircraft.

3. Contour errors corrected.

4. Any detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.

5. Alignment

Wings/tailplanes: same dihedral or anhedral on both sides.
Plan view: wings and stabilizers aligned correctly with, and identically on both sides of, centerline.
Multiple fins/rudders: fin-to-stabilizer angles correct; aligned with each other in front and side views where appropriate.
Engine nacelles/cowlings: lined up correctly in front, side, and plan views.
Landing gear: components properly aligned with airframe and with each other in front, side, and plan views.
Ordnance items (bombs, rockets, pylons, etc.) aligned correctly with aircraft and with each other.

6. Canopies and other clear areas:

Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

7. Decals must look painted on if depicting painted markings (conforming to surface contours, no silvering or bubbling, no decal film apparent).

Details

1. Thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced; e.g., wing trailing edges and similar surfaces, ordnance fins, landing gear doors, edges of open panels, etc.

2. Wheel wells, intakes, scoops, etc. should be blocked off to prevent a “see-through” effect.

3. Gun barrels, exhaust stacks, intakes, vents, and similar openings should be opened.

4. Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.

5. External stores should be built to the same level of quality as the model to which they are attached. Stores/weapons combinations on a model should represent only those combinations actually carried by the real aircraft.

6. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

Painting and Finishing

1. The model’s surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).

2. Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual aircraft’s finish are being duplicated, documentation of such irregularities is required.

No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no “powdering” in areas such as fillets or wing roots.
No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.
4. Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.

5. Weathering, if present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be in accordance with the conditions in which the real aircraft was operating, and be consistent throughout the model (a factory-fresh interior would be unlikely on a 100-mission aircraft).

6. Decals:

Aligned properly. (If the real aircraft had a markings anomaly; e.g., an inverted U.S. insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else’s error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)
Some modern aircraft use decals rather than paint for standard markings. If the real aircraft suffers from problems with decal application, such anomalies should be documented if duplicated on the model.

7. Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, aside from gross inaccuracies such as a light green “Red Arrows” aircraft, color shades should not be used to determine a model’s accuracy or lack thereof. Again, models with unusual colors should be supported by confirming documentation.

Armor/Military Vehicles

Basic Construction

1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, provisions for motorization eliminated.
2. Seams filled where applicable, especially on cylindrical parts such as gun barrels, wheels, and auxiliary equipment.
3. Contour errors corrected.

4. Gaps between upper and lower hulls blanked off to prevent a “see-through” effect.

5. Gap/overlap at point where track ends join eliminated.

6. Machine guns, main guns, exhausts, vents, etc. drilled out/opened up.

7. Cylindrical cross-section of gun barrels maintained.

8. Track pattern (cleats) facing in the proper direction on both sides of vehicle.

9. Alignment:

Road wheels on tracked vehicles (along with idler, drive, and return rollers, if any) at the same distance from the lower chassis centerline.
Road wheels sitting flush on the track.
Tracks vertical (not leaning in or out when viewed from the front or back of the vehicle) and parallel (not toed in or out when viewed from top of vehicle).
All wheels/tracks sitting firmly on the ground.
Vehicle components square and aligned.
Gun(s) (on most turreted vehicles) parallel to turret centerline when viewed from above.
Items positioned symmetrically on actual vehicle (e.g., headlights and guards, fenders, mud flaps, etc.) positioned symmetrically on model, unless represented as damaged.

Details

1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced.

2. Weld marks should be simulated where applicable.

3. Extra parts should be added if practical, with references used to confirm their existence on the actual vehicle. Such parts should be as close to scale as possible.

Add (especially on conversion or scratch-built models) the small detail parts (rivets, nuts and bolts, etc.) usually found in standard injection-molded kits.
Add tarps, bedrolls, chains, fuel cans, etc., but be sure to also add some method by which such items are attached to the vehicle (hook, rope, tie down). Jerrycans are not attached to real tanks with superglue.
Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

4. Molded-on parts such as axes and shovels should be undercut or removed completely and replaced. This is especially true of molded screen, which should be replaced with real screen.
5. Track “sag” on tracked vehicles should be duplicated where appropriate.

6. Windshield wipers should be added where appropriate.

7. Headlights and tail lights should be drilled out and have lenses added.

8. Cable and electrical lines should be added to lights and smoke dischargers.

9. Valve stems should be added to tires.

10. Instrument faces on dashboards should have detail picked out and lenses added.

11. Gas and brake pedals should be added to open-wheeled vehicles.

12. Road wheel interiors should be detailed (this is especially necessary on the Hetzer).

13. Molded grab handles and hatch levers should be replaced with wire or stretched sprue.

14. Underside of model, if viewable, should be given the same attention to detail as the top; e.g., motor holes filled, paint applied, weathering on the inside of the road wheels consistent with that on the outside. If the vehicle being modeled was weathered, normal wear and tear to the bottom of the hull from riding over the usual rocks, brush, and other obstacles should be visible on the model.

Painting and finishing

2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle’s finish are being duplicated. Exceptions such as zimmerit or non-slip surfaces should be documented.

No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no “powdering” in recessed areas.
No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.

4. Weathering, if present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be consistent throughout the model, and be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating. Be careful to distinguish some of the purposely “heavy-handed” paint schemes from over-zealous weathering. Extreme examples should be documented. Weathering should not be used to attempt to hide flaws in construction or finishing.

5. Decals:

1. Aligned properly. (If the real vehicle had a markings anomaly, the modeler should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else’s error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)

2. No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

6. Colors: Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, color shade should not be used to determine a model’ s accuracy. Models with unusual colors or color schemes should be accompanied by documentation.

Automotive

Basic Construction

1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Seams filled if not found on the actual vehicle. (This is especially important on the car’s body. Rubberized kit tires usually also have a mold seam that must be removed.)

3. Contour errors corrected.

4. Gaps between body and chassis eliminated as applicable.

5. Detailing removed while accomplishing the above steps restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.

6. Alignment:

Where applicable, external items (e.g., mirrors, exhaust pipes) aligned symmetrically.
Internal items (e.g., seats, some engine/drive components) aligned properly.
Wheels: All wheels touching the ground and aligned properly when viewed from front or rear of the vehicle. If turned, front wheels should be aligned in the same direction.
Windshields and other clear areas:

1. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.

2. Gaps between windshield, windows, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.

3. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

Detailing

1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced.

2. Exhausts, intakes, vents, and other objects that have openings should be opened.

3. Additional detailing added to the vehicle should be as close to scale as possible. Such items could include door-lock buttons, tire valve stems, dashboard gauge detail, fabric surfaces on interior components, etc. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

4. Engine and chassis detailing should be done to a level consistent with detailing on the rest of the model.

5. Working parts, if any (e.g., opening hoods or doors), should match the level of workmanship on the rest of the model. Such parts should operate realistically, and the operating mechanism(s) should be in scale if visible.

Painting and finishing

2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle’s finish are being duplicated. Such irregularities should be documented.

No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no “powdering” in recessed areas.
No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.

4. Chrome parts should be correctly represented and should be just as free of surface blemishes and evidences of the construction process as the painted components.

5. Weathering: Although weathering is gaining more acceptance in the automotive ranks, especially with some trucks and certain types of racing cars (such as the Rally types), it is not standard practice. Most auto modelers build what is considered a “show” car or restored car, and because of this, weathering will be the exception rather than the rule. If present, however, weathering should show concern for scale, be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating, and be consistent throughout the model.

6. Decals:

1. Decals should be aligned properly. This is especially important for racing subjects.

2. Water-slide decals should show no evidence of silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

Ships

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Seams filled.

3. Contour errors corrected.

4. Ship configuration correct for the time period being depicted by the model.

5. Alignment:

Superstructure components (platforms, cabins, funnels, etc.) aligned with the vertical when viewed from stem to stern.
Masts parallel to the vertical axis of the ship when viewed from stem to stern. Rake of masts uniform, unless the real vessel’s masts had varying rake angles. Rigging tension must not cause the masts and spars to bend.

6. Cylindrical cross-section of gun barrels and masts (if applicable) maintained.

7. Glue marks removed.

Detailing

1. All small parts (including masts, bulwarks, splinter shields, railings, and rigging) should be as close to scale as possible.

2. Small details sanded off during construction should be replaced with scratch-built or aftermarket material.

3. Gun barrels and vents should be drilled out whenever possible.

4. Sailing ship rigging and lines should be correct for the era being modeled.

5. Deadeyes should be rightside-up, and rigging lines and blocks should be in proportion to each other.

6. Photo-etched parts:

Nubs and burrs where parts are removed from sprue must be eliminated.
Parts should not be unintentionally damaged or bent.
Glue marks and buildups should not show.
Parts (e.g., rails and stanchions) must not overlap.
All railings should be straight when viewing the model bow to stern (no wavy railings).
Railings must line up horizontally and vertically where they join.
Corner seams created when parts are bent to shape should be filled.
Paint should cover brass completely, including areas at bends and cuts.

Painting and Finishing

1. Paint should have a matt finish, unless a different sheen is being used to create a special effect.

2. Paint should be even and smooth, exhibiting no brush marks or “orange-peel” effect.

3. Color schemes should be correct for the era being modeled.

4. Decals:

Aligned properly. Unusual markings or markings placement must be documented.
No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

5. Weathering should be kept to a minimum because of the small scales involved.

Figures

The underlying premise of a miniature is that it should look like a small version of a real person. The closer the figure comes to that goal, the better the figure will appear to the judges.

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Mold seams removed.

3. Construction seams filled in where appropriate (e.g., where arms meet shoulders, legs meet boots, etc.) and creases that cross these seams restored.

4. Equipment properly attached, e.g., holsters not hanging in space, canteens attached to belts.

5. Straps hanging properly. Rifle slings, horse harnesses, etc. hanging/sagging properly to depict their weight.

6. Feet touching the ground/surface properly.

Detailing

1. Straps should have proper thickness.

2. Gun barrels should be drilled/hollowed out.

3. Accessories and equipment should be in proper scale for the figure.

4. Ground bases should show footprints.

5. Foliage should harmonize with the figure (e.g., no flowers present when figure is in winter clothes).

6. Lapels and collars should be slightly raised whenever possible.

7. Slings should be added to weapons where necessary.

Painting and Finishing

1. Cloth should have the proper sheen, e.g., a matt finish for wool.

2. Leather should have a slight sheen except for dress shoes and polished belts.

3. Finish should have an even texture. Brush marks should not be present.

4. Dry-brushing should not be apparent as such.

5. Blending of highlighted and shaded areas with the basic color should be smooth, gradual, and subtle. No demarcation lines should show.

6. Shadows should be present when two surfaces meet (e.g., belts over tunics) and on undersurfaces (e.g., between legs and under arms).

7. White should not be used in eyes in order to avoid a pop-eyed look.

8. Eyes should be symmetrical; figure should not be wall-eyed or cross-eyed.

9. Figures shown on ground should have feet/footwear slightly indented in the earth to depict weight.

10. Weathering of feet or shoes, if depicted, should be appropriate to the ground cover.

11. Equipment being worn by, or slung on, the figure should be given an appearance of weight, e.g., by indenting straps slightly into the shoulder.

12. Headgear shadows should show on the figure’s face.

13. Equipment such as swords should have a shadow shown on the figure.

14. Flesh tones should reflect the climate in which the figure is depicted.

Note: Additional equipment such as a desk, bar, etc. will not be judged unless such equipment is included with the original figure casting/kit.

Space and Science Fiction

Space and Science Fiction models depict a wide variety of subjects, from real vehicles to complete flights of fancy. In so doing, they run the gamut from sleek “rocket ships” to boxy satellites, from robots to alien armored vehicles. Models of actual spacecraft are typically judged much like aircraft or vehicle models. The incredible range of science fiction subjects, however, would seem at first glance to defy any attempt at systematic judging. Yet even a model that represents a builder’s total flight of fancy can still be judged on the basis of basic scale modeling skills.

Basic Construction

1. Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Seams filled if not present on the actual prototype. If depicting a subject with visible seams, such detail should be uniform and to scale throughout the model.

3. Detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.

4. Alignment:

Wings, fins, pods, etc., have same dihedral or anhedral on both sides and, when viewed from various angles, line up properly with the vehicle centerline.
Landing/running gear components properly aligned with vehicle and with each other in front, side, and plan views.
Ordnance items (laser cannon, photon-torpedo tubes, etc.) aligned correctly with vehicle and with each other.

5. Canopies and other clear areas:

Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.
Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.
All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

Details

1. Overly thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced. This is especially true of the antennas supplied with many kits. Kit versions often appear too “fat” and lack detail.

2. Scoops and other such openings should be blocked off to prevent a “see-through” effect.

3. Weapon barrels, exhausts, intakes, vents, small thrusters, steering rockets, etc. should be drilled or opened.

4. Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.

5. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

6. Science fiction and fantasy modeling can entail a fair amount of scratch-building or kit-bashing. Items or areas added in this fashion should look useful and truly part of the vehicle, and should be similar in fit, detail, and overall finish to the rest of the model. Parts used from other kits should be sufficiently altered or disguised so that their origin is not immediately apparent in order to avoid the appearance of a haphazard assemblage of spare parts (sometimes known as the “Panzer IV in Space” syndrome).

Painting and Finishing

2. Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual vehicle’s finish are being duplicated, documentation of such irregularities is required.

No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.
No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no “powdering” in areas such as cavities or inside corners.
No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.

4. Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.

5. Weathering, if present, should be consistent throughout the model, not overdone, and appropriate for the vehicle and the conditions in which it was (or would be) operating. Reentry vehicles (Space Shuttle, Apollo, etc.) should show some aerodynamic weathering if depicted in a post-reentry or landing mode. Rocket engine nozzles generally should show some sort of weathering, particularly on the inside; but check references, as such weathering can vary greatly from one type of nozzle to another.

6. Decals:

1. Aligned properly. (If the actual prototype had a markings anomaly, e.g., an inverted insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else’s error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)

2. No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

3. Uniform finish (a consideration if using decal bits from a variety of sources).

4. Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather, sunlight, supernova explosions, etc., and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, except for gross inaccuracies such as a black Space Shuttle Columbia, color shades should not be used to determine the accuracy of a model that represents an actual spacecraft or a specific TV or movie science fiction vehicle. Of course, for science fiction models that are solely the product of the builder’s imagination, the rule on colors is “anything goes.”

Dioramas

A diorama is a combination of model(s) and a believable setting that tells a story, sets a mood, or creates a charged atmosphere. In addition to evaluating the modeling of a diorama’s individual elements, the judges will consider the strength of the diorama’s story line or mood and the overall presentation of the diorama. These three factors are equally important. Dioramas with superbly modeled components but a weak story line and presentation will almost certainly lose to a diorama with well-modeled components and strong story and presentation.

Model Components: The individual model components of a diorama will be judged according to the criteria specified in the appropriate individual class. That is, armor pieces will be subject to armor judging criteria while figures will be evaluated according to the figure modeling guidelines. As always, the basics of construction and finishing are of prime importance. Terrain, roadwork, buildings, and accessories that set the scene of the diorama will be evaluated similarly to the primary model components. Basic construction and finish are once again paramount.

Presentation: The diorama base should comprise individual elements that combine to form a realistic and/or plausible setting for the primary model component(s). Each of the elements also should be believable in its own right and consistent with the action or mood being depicted. The degree of imagination and inventiveness used to pose the main elements will factor into the overall presentation evaluation. The base should provide a focal point for the scene and fit or enhance the story line or mood of the diorama. Dioramas with a well-defined focal point highlighting a simple story generally will have a stronger presentation than those attempting to portray an entire battlefield.

Story Line, Mood, Atmosphere: This element is what separates the diorama from models merely set on a base. A simple derelict vehicle rusting away in a field can set a mood as well as, or better than, a complete recreation of the Battle of Waterloo. The story, mood, or atmosphere created by the diorama should be obvious; the judges shouldn’t have to strain to see it. Stories can incorporate historical or even humorous aspects. Here again, imagination and inventiveness in telling the story or setting the mood can lift a diorama out of the ordinary.